Climbing rules (Effective since August 6, 1981)
In exercise of the powers conferred by Government of Nepal, the Nepal Mountaineering Association has made the following rules to be observed for the climbing of the peaks of Nepal Himalaya listed in Appendix ‘1’. These rules will come into force at once (go to the NMA website to see peak lists and specific Appendices).
Definition: Where applicable definitions for these rules will be the same as those for Government of Nepal Mountaineering Expedition Regulations 1979 and its first Amendment 1984.
Permission: Any person or mountaineering team desirous of climbing the peaks listed in Appendix ‘1’ must receive permission from the Nepal Mountaineering Association. Application to climb the peak must be made in the form as prescribed in Appendix ‘2’. Permission to climb the peaks will be granted for a period of one month only. Permission may be extended, if necessary, for another period of two weeks. The period of permission granted relates to time spent for climbing above the base camp. The trek to and from the base camp is not included. Application for climbing permit may be made at any time by the concerned mountaineering team. Permit will be granted on a first come / first serve basis. The right to give permission to another party for climbing the same peak during the same period is reserved by Nepal Mountaineering Association. Nepal Mountaineering Association will recommend to Immigration Office of Government of Nepal for obtaining trekking permit of the area to the team members.
Payment of fees: The climbing fee structure of NMA 18 Trekking Peaks can be found listed in Appendix “1” at the NMA website.
Refund: In the event of cancellation of the permission by NMA or the failure of the expedition to materialize due to some other reasons, the fees already paid will not be refunded. Every individual or party granted a climbing permit shall be accompanied by a Sirdar/Guide, who must be registered with NMA.For extending permission, an additional 25% charge of the total amount of the initial fee will be made for each extra week. The leader or climbing member of the team must collect the permit in person from Nepal Mountaineering Association. The maximum number of person in a group is 12 pax.
Functions and duties of the Sirdar/Guide :
To assist the climbing party with recruitment of porters and other staff, control of porters, local purchase of food, etc. and to solve any problem that may arise to the best of his ability.
To report to Nepal Mountaineering Association in case the party spends more than the prescribed time limit in the mountain.
To ensure that the climbers comply with the terms of their permit.
To ensure that the climbers (trekkers) follow the specified route.
To ensure proper disposal of waste materials.
To report to NMA any infringement of the climbing rules.
To report any serious incidents to the nearest police post.
The Sirder Guide shall be employed from the day the climbing party begins the trek until the trek is finished. The Sirdar/Guide will be provided with the following facilities:
Minimum daily allowance to be paid as per the rules of Government of Nepal, Ministry of Tourism, and Civil Aviation.
Food and tent accommodation.
Climbing equipment and necessary clothing if required to go above the base camp. Insurance: All employees going above the base camp must be insured for personal accident to the value of Rs. 200,000.00.
Nomination of representative in Kathmandu: Each party granted a climbing permit will nominate a representative in Kathmandu to act as liaison between NMA and the climbing party. The representative may be an individual or an organization registered with NMA (like MatterhornNepal-GuideSource Treks & Expeditions Ltd. at www.matterhornnepal.com). The nominated representative will be responsible for making necessary arrangements for the climbing party in case of accidents or any other unforeseen circumstances.
Submission of report: On the conclusion of the climb and on return to Kathmandu, the party will submit a report to NMA, in the form prescribed in Appendix ‘4’. Power to cancel the permit: NMA may cancel or withdraw the climbing permit any time with or without showing any particular reason. Non-compliance of the regulation: Where any trekking party acts in contravention to the climbing permit or indulges in acts of unsocial or outrageous behavior contrary to the customs and culture of the people of Nepal, NMA may recommend that the Government of Nepal take necessary measures in accordance with Article 37 of Mountaineering Regulations 1979.
Protection of Environment: Base camp and other camps will be left perfectly clean at the conclusion of the climb. No foreign materials, such as fix rope, pitons, etc shall be left on the mountain. All rubbish and waste material must be burnt or otherwise disposed off.
Revision of the Regulations: Any article of this regulation may be revised or amended by NMA with prior permission of Government of Nepal.